Bathrooming in Japan

So many things struck me as being very funny when I first came to Japan. Now that I have lived here for three years, I’m getting used to it all and I don’t even need to stifle a guffaw or a gasp… at least, not usually.

So I want to keep a record of the things I encounter that I still find bizarre. I fear that, eventually, I won’t even notice them.

In the Japanese-style house that we rent here in Tokyo, everything is designed for a much shorter inhabitant. When I wash my hands in the tiny sink next to the bidet-style toilet with optional warming seat, I do not see my head. I don’t even see my neck in the mirror above the sink. My shoulders and torso along with the upper part of my legs are reflected in the mirror, reminding me every day that here in Japan, I am too tall. At least I am short enough that I do not whack my head on the door frame. My oldest daughter, (who says she is 5′-11″) and my first-born, Alec, (who is 6′- 2″) do tend to clonk their foreheads when they’re not careful. Our home washroom is, however, much closer to the American style lavatory than many other places here. The range of potties found in Japan is intriguing.

Today, I took my younger daughter to the doctor, and when I went to the washroom, the very clean and modern bathroom had clear directions for using the commode. To be sure, directions were essential, what with all of the buttons, screens and options. My needs were simple, but even so, as I sat down, the sound of rushing water automatically began to play from the speaker next to me. The recording gurgled on in an apparent attempt to mask any awkward noises, and then finally stopped. Even if I hadn’t had much of an urge to go before sitting down, that insistent sound of flowing water would have gotten me going, that’s for sure. I stood up, and following the instructions, passed my hand close to an infrared sensor and the toilet flushed. Ta-da. Mission accomplished. Good thing I had so much technology helping me.

Nowadays, Western-style, sit-down toilets are everywhere. Most places give you an option. Older Japanese folk often prefer the traditional hole-in-the-floor; you just hunker down and go, assuming that you are still able to hunker. In case this fleeting description does not paint the picture for you, here it is in plain English. An oval hole in the floor which slants away from you is equipped with a flusher on the floor or near the end. You must straddle the hole, one foot on either side, drop your drawers, taking care not to drag any material or dangle it in the way of the jet stream and then in that dignified position, you relax and proceed with your business.

One could argue that these old style toilets are actually more hygienic since you don’t have to touch any public surface to use them. You can even use your foot to flush. There are obvious disadvantages, however…. like when you’re nine months pregnant. I remember having to use old-style toilets when I was pregnant with my first. We were living in Sendai in the 1980’s and Western toilets were few and far between. When you are heavy with child, especially one who is leaning perniciously on your bladder, you do not take your time searching for your favorite style of potty. The problem is, once hunkered down, there is no getting up. Having no idea what Japanese phrase I might use to help me out of this predicament, I just pretended I was one of those spandexed, bulging Olympic weight-lifters and deadlifted my bulk off the floor and escaped with most of my dignity still intact. So much for the “Squatty-Potty.” Although I do appreciate many things about Japan, I gravitate towards the sit-down variety of rest stops.

Windshield Driving

We were screaming out warnings, imperatives thrown from the bottom of our fear. My mother-in-law was driving. She uncharacteristically veered around obstacles at top speed, narrowly missing a bridge here, a pedestrian there. The windshield in front of her eyes had become a game console with road and surroundings rendered in low-tech 3D. To her, it was a game… but we all knew it was real. We could die.
I awoke in a cold sweat, thankful to be removed from the nocturnal swervings of another nightmare. And I sat there wondering. Do I put too much stock in something that is really just an appearance? Or do I lightly dismiss real-life elements coming at me top speed? Am I looking at and reacting to reality or just a windscreen projection?
Life is not, at the moment, a chauffeured spin through the countryside. It is a white-knuckle, split second survival slam. It all happens at once. Two kids veering off, away from home, on their own, while the parent drivers try to keep the wheel steady, eyeing the gas gauge, tachometer, engine temp, fluid level, electrical system and tire pressure all at the same time. Amazing that it even holds together. But somehow it does.
We hurtle down the highway, talking over the racket of engine and road. It is enough that we are together and that there are moments when what you really meant to say materializes in front of your mouth and blesses the chaos with a pocket of peace.

Walking the Taught Rope

Who would have thought teaching would be so dangerous? Stepping out on a rope stretching from August to June, spanning a multitude of subjects and disciplines, holding a pole festooned with such a motley mobile of educational accouterments that it would cause Calder to turn in his grave. The audience is below; a smattering of smiles and smirks; some applauding every step and some waiting for the spectacle of a fall. There is no net. This is the real world, after all.
Once you step out onto the rope, there is no backward, only forward. Each step is a sigh of amazement that the rope is still beneath your feet. Each wobble is a gasp of doubt that the balance will remain. One, two, three… eyes on me, as you step gingerly across the void. As you teach, you are taught. There is the ever-present tension in the rope you tread; the threads of necessary knowledge are intertwined with the windings of wisdom. A strong rope needs both… and the teaching must be taut.
Your eyes look straight ahead; the goal of this careful crossing must be your ever-present focus. A second of distraction can be disastrous. Don’t look down; look forward to the goal. Be centered. Be balanced. What is the point of all this? What learning do you want to facilitate? Are those spit balls being shot on either side of you? A taught-rope walker must have exceptional peripheral vision. You identify the perp without a pause in your pace, without turning your face. “Take that paper pulp out of your mouth and drop it in the garbage can. That is not what we meant by recycling.”
Half-way across the chasm, you stop to ponder your progress. The quiver is gone, your step more certain. The pole is no longer a burden but a tool for balance. You pause your pace for a bit of interpretive dance, which captivates the audience but garners a glare from the ever-present ringmaster. Ignore the glare, shrug off the stare. For whom do you perform, after all? They follow you with their eyes. If only they would learn to focus, not on the walker, but on the path; the taut rope that catches every step.

The Land of Lamentations

“I am living in the land of Lamentations,” I said to myself last summer. I was sure of it. Joel had lost his job; his whole division had been dropped. The sponsoring company was not going to renew the work visa. I had not been able to secure the full-time job I had been hoping for. Sickness had pounced on me with wretched regularity. My son had been hospitalized thousands of miles away back in the States. He had finally, after years of teenage rationality hit his rebellion phase. His grades and our relationship suffered. My daughters were resenting the fact that they had to hunker down in this non-California Japanese desolation far away from their beloved friends. We were daily struggling with a seemingly untrainable, unrestrainable furry toddler with sharp teeth who resisted our efforts at domestication. I was struggling with the fact that my brain was no longer as spongy as it used to be and no matter how many times I needed to use it, the japanese for “Don’t worry, my dog doesn’t bite.” (kamimasen) came out sounding like, “Don’t worry, my dog doesn’t mind.” (kamaimasen). And in many ways the second sentence was more accurate. My dog still has not really learned to mind.

So the school year ended and off we went to the peace and rejuvenation of Lake Nojiri. One daughter was terrified of the giant hoppers and would climb up on my head whenever she saw one, and the other daughter caught an army of interesting bugs and brought them into the cabin for further study. One room was turned into the bug morgue and the odor was not pleasant. Our very large puppy, Bjorn, came along and to liven things up a bit at the lakeside, he plowed into an innocent bystander and broke her thumb. Not to be outdone, I broke my own toe, but then again, that happens every year. I was beginning to think that was losing my way in the wilderness of Lamentations.

I got sick, Laura got sick, Joel got sick. Elsa did not. Constant dirt under the fingernails does have the advantage of boosting your immune system. During the last couple of weeks up at the lake, I got an infection. I was not in a happy place and I’m afraid I was less than cheerful and I often took it out on the ones that I loved. I pulled others into my land of lamentations.

We went sailing, Laura and I. We entered a sailing race in pre-typhoon winds. We were going at a good clip when the sail came loose and the boom dropped on the deck. The winds were so strong, we could not re-attach the sail. We had to tip the boat sideways, drop the mast and sail into the water, and with the help of another boat and three people in the water, managed to tie the sail back on and finally make our way back to shore. I was so exhausted after that ordeal, I could barely stand. I hobbled back to the cabin with a bruised knee and continued my lamentations.

I had gone back to California with the girls in early July to get the house ready for two sets of renters; upstairs and downstairs. Clearing the basement had taken a long time, but it would be worth it if the rent would cover our mortgage. Back in Japan, I was relieved all that was over and done with. We had a renter for the upstairs and a new renter for the downstairs. I could relax in the peace and quiet of the lake. Joel called from Tokyo; he had some bad news. It was about the house. But, of course, what now? Apparently, the guy who had just begun renting the downstairs of our house back in California had been thrown in jail along with his girlfriend for possession of drugs. There was a big confrontation with shouting and guns and handcuffs. We were very apologetic to our neighbors. We told them that we will no longer trust the results of background checks. We are new to this landlord business. Our neighbors have had experience as landlords. “It happens,” they said, “not your fault.” Still, I felt like I had become a homeowner in the Land of Lamentations. And I wasn’t sure if I could afford the mortgage.

Joel came to rest at Nojiri on the weekends. He brought his bike so he could ride around the lake. It was relaxing for him to be able to get in some good long rides. His last ride was rather short. While pedaling fast up hill and cornering, his pedal hit the pavement on the downstroke and he went tumbling over his bike in a spectacular wipeout. And when he had picked himself up, the tire blew. At least there was someone there to see it. In fact there was a whole group of runners who saw the accident; they happened to be from Chofu, our neighborhood in Tokyo. They gave him a ride back to the cabin and we patched up his bloody arm and leg as best we could. He had to go back to work the next day, but on the train, of course, he discovered that he was ill. He had just cause for lamentations, but he was actually just happy that he got to go on a bike ride.

When he got home that Monday, he found that Elsa’s beloved hamster had passed on. Earlier, her second beetle had also died. True, Sally was elderly, for a hamster, but it was still a reasonable cause for lamentations. Poor Joel had to place the body in cold storage, in the freezer, and wait for a week until we could bring Elsa home for the funeral and burial. It was a sad procession to the cemetery. Sally, the hamster, was buried under a tree and laid to rest with a small handmade cross to mark her grave. Even for the small things in life, the lamentations can be large.

So what is the end of it all? Do my lamentations magically stop on the doorstep of some sun-drenched happy day in the future? Lamentations are a part of life. We live through them. Our tears stop. Some things heal quickly and other things take time. Weeping lasts but for a night; joy comes in the morning… or the next day… or the next month. God does not ever leave us. God carries us through. Sometimes we are oblivious even when God is obvious. So, even if I am traveling through the land of Lamentations, it does not mean that I have to buy a house here. One mortgage is enough. I will keep traveling.

Out with the Devils, In with Good Fortune

Here in Japan, on the eve of Setsubun, I am pondering the significance of “oni wa soto; fuku wa uchi,” which is loosely translated “out with the devils, in with good fortune.” Every year on Feb. 3, people throw beans out their front doors at the “oni” or “demons” which are real or imagined. Often in families with young children, someone will dress up with a red, horned “oni” mask and come to the door to be gleefully driven off by bean-slinging rug-rats.

I have been blessed this year with a classroom of 27 four-year old bilingual tutors. They are training me to develop characteristics of a new type of oni; eyes in the back of my head, a voice louder than 27 roaring lions, and a formidable resistance to all of the viruses in Tokyo. They are full of beans and I am the “oni” one who can put up with all of them at once, for seven hours at a time. I am a gentle monster; I put up with a lot. But some days, I have to restrain myself mightily, lest I chuck those little human beans out the door of the classroom.

Today was quite the test. All 27 present and accounted for. Our chronologically homogenous society functions fairly well, considering the small space and large number of occupants, but, as in most overcrowded cities, crime is on the rise. Fights break out over who gets to play with which toy and who gets to put it back during cleanup time. During rug time, 27 kids sitting together means that 108 hands and feet can be thrashing about causing pain or discomfort to another nearby body. And the only thing that comes close to calming the general uproar of this preschool beast, is music. For the space of a few melodic measures, the rowdiness sings and stomps together.

Today, it was all about fluids. Preschool is messy. Paint, pee, tears and even blood contributed to an exhausting flow of time from start to finish. I will give you a moment in my day; more than that would overwhelm. It is the end of a long day. We have already dealt with a bloody nose, kids who wouldn’t nap and two who wouldn’t wake up, cold recesses with innumerable zippers and hats and scarves, and other liquids that needed mopping up including milk, glue and snot. Now it is clean-up, clean-up, everybody everywhere… clean-up, clean-up, everybody do your share. A battle erupts at the far end of the room where two want to “do their share” cleaning up the same thing, and will not share. I cannot reach them fast enough and one goes sprawling backwards. As I shield them from each other, I hear an urgent call behind me. “Teacher, I have to go pee.” Didn’t they all just go? Haven’t they been traipsing off to the toilets all day? It’s their favorite activity. I turn in time to see an arc of liquid making a little lake on the floor. I do have an assistant (for most of the day) and a very capable one at that. What would I do without her? She hurries off to mop up the moisture.

I look at the clock. Perfect timing. The parents are here to gather their sweet ones up and trundle them home. I do love kids. I really do, but 27 at once can be a bit much. Still, by the time they are out the door, they still have time to turn and smile and say good bye. Thank the Lord, it’s Friday. I don’t know if I can wait until Sunday to shout, “Out with the little devils and in with the luck!”

The Perfect Dog Nap

I am enjoying the perfect dog nap. Cozy and furry with that friendly dog aroma settling around me like a blanket. Breathe in. Breathe out.

For a long drowsy moment it does not matter that I seem to have lost my life’s focus, or that I am desperately trying to knit the future together before I fall into it. For now, my canine friend is content to lie with his back to my belly and his warm muzzle on my forearm. Breathe in. Breathe out.

The rain falls. The refrigerator hums. The clock ticks. The list of things that must get done has worked its way down between the cushions of the couch. Breathe in. Breathe out.

The cool air reaches my nose through the filter of fur. Reality must first make its way through the beast protecting me, lying across my threshold. My friend softens the onslaught and guards the door. Gazing in, and finally gazing out, I leave the warmth, find the list and begin.

You Gotta Sing, or It Will Burn

So we’ve lived here in Tokyo for almost a year… hasn’t it been a year yet? Sometimes it feels like a lifetime. I guess I’m in a contrary mood, grumping about this inconvenience or that, although, to be sure, we don’t have it so bad. Food, shelter, chocolate; we have all the neccessities of life here. And now, to add to our luxuries, we have a toaster to boot. We did without a toaster for ten months and now we have one. A salvage item from another family relocating back to the States. And now, we no longer have to sing for our toast.

Up to this time, we toasted the bread slices in the little oven grill under the gas burners built into our tiny kitchen countertop… and if you didn’t sing while those bread slices were toasting, it was inevitable that during the hurly-burly of morning scamperings, you would forget the bread was in there and before you knew it, your breakfast was toast. Carbonized toast, that no amount of butter or jam could possibly save. The singing reminded you, and anyone else who had the misfortune to be listening, that you were attempting to make toast and you didn’t want to forget what you were dong.

Now, when we open up our pathetically small loaves of presliced-six-slices-to-a-bag-no-heel bread and pop one of those slices into our toaster, it actually reappears a decent shade of brown instead of black as volcanic soil. And we don’t have to put up with someone’s butchered version of a Broadway musical number… “I’m sing’in for my toast, Just sing’in for my toast, ‘Cause carbonized bread ain’t what I love the most…” There are worse ones, believe me. Although it was sort of nice hearing any kind of singing in the morning.

So convenient, those toasters. Now, I suppose I can more easily put up with the other inconveniences… no central heating, no car, no shoes in my size, biking in the rain and frequently intense wind, sleeping on the floor and, the most heart-breaking inconvenience of all… never being able to find decent cheese. Mmmm… cheese. I miss my cheese. Guess it’s getting late. Time to curl up on the floor in a little furry ball and go to sleep. Next year is the Year of the Rat. Maybe then we’ll get some decent cheese.

The Spider vs. The Earthquake

If I were to ask anyone, “Which do you consider to be more dangerous, a spider or an earthquake?” they would most probably answer, “An earthquake.” Then they would avoid any further conversation with me because only a loopy person would ask such a silly question.

Yesterday, my ten-year old daughter, (the bug-loving, future herpetologist), found a dead spider. (I believe it was the one I had previously dispatched of with a fly swatter.) She came waltzing into the kitchen with the spider carefully tied onto the end of a thin string. “It’s a dead Jumping Spider!” she happily announces. Even though it is dead and all curled up, she can still indentify one of her beloved arachnids.

Later, as I head upstairs, I see her on a chair in her big sister’s room, the string in her hand, reaching up to the top of the door frame. “What are you up to?” I ask. She explains that she is doing something fun with the spider. Hmm. Fun for her; maybe not so fun for her sister. Still, practical jokes are an old family tradition, so I let her be.

Later, sister Laura gets home and heads up to her room. We hear a shriek and Elsa giggles triumphantly. Big sister pummels little sister who is still laughing, but she is forced to remove her offending critter from the doorway. It later appears inside her sister’s computer. Another pounding. This time the spider has to go.

Spiders are anathema to my fifteen year old. Even if the spider is the size of an ant, the reaction is always the same; revulsion, fear and an inability to deal with this unspeakable danger. She simply cannot abide spiders.

About an hour after the spider incident, an earthquake struck. The house shivered and rolled a bit and then it stopped. “Earthquakes are fun,” muses Laura. “I like to sit on my bed and feel them rolling me around.” I’m thinking, “Um, earthquakes are much more dangerous than spiders,” but I know it’s useless to point out such an obvious thing to a teen who is terrified off her tuffet whenever she sees eight legs.

Like daughter, like mother

It is embarrassing to write this, but honesty is more important than dignity…I suppose. After ranting at my ten-year old for leaping out of a tree and onto a wall and doing her Humpty-Dumpty impersonation, I went and did the same sort of fool-hardy thing. I guess the tree doesn’t fall far from the apple.
On Friday, since there was no school (and thus plenty of time to get into trouble), youngest daughter, exuberant dog and reluctant mom biked over to meet eager friend at playground. Bjorn (the dog) and I sat and barked (I sat, he barked) while the two pals clambered about, finding a very satisfactory place to sit high in the branches of a wisteria bush.
“You have to come up here mommy!” says the little monkey. After declining politely several times in a very mature and adult manner, daughter finally climbs down and urges me once more. “It’s beautiful up there. You’ll like it. I’ll even hold Bjorn for you.”
“Fine,” I think, “I’ll climb up and she’ll stop pestering me. The other two adults sitting in the park won’t mind.”
So up I go. It feels so easy and natural to climb and the view from the top is rather nice. But then, I start to think, perhaps a grown-up perching up here is a bit odd. Better get down before one of those responsible citizens with a large katakana “Patrol” sign on their bike basket comes by and scolds me. So I choose the fast way down; hanging from my long arms and dropping to the ground. I do not look down before I drop. The ground is farther away than I had reckoned. My knees do their best to absorb the shock, but my back tells me that I am, after all, forty-four and should not be dropping from the trees.
The only other woman in the park sees me. She smiles and tells me I look like a monkey. Well, I feel like one too now, thanks so much. I go home to lie flat on my back and do my old-lady back-strengthening exercises. From now on, no more dropping out of the trees. Only very young and green fruit can take the hard landing.